Like many of us who grew up in Fairfield County, exploring a world outside of our cozy commune following our high school years was quite exhilarating. College and work experience took us to all sorts of new and exciting places. Of course, the high cost of living and various career paths and relationships made it difficult for most young adults to return to this southernmost point of Connecticut. But once in awhile, Fairfield County draws, or even keeps, another devoted native home, and a new life is created back where it all began. We tracked down a few of our most dynamic chefs who not only call Fairfield County their home, but it is also where they’ve decided to pursue their craft.

Chef & Owner Bryan Malcarney of Blue Lemon Restarant

In June 2003, Chef Bryan Malcarney brought his eclectic modern American cuisine to Westport in the form of Blue Lemon Restaurant. A 1988 graduate of Wilton High School, Bryan says he always wanted to have his own restaurant. Upon graduating from St. Lawrence University in upstate New York, Bryan’s culinary journey began as the general manager of Café Pika Tapas (now Ibiza) in New Haven, then on to chef positions at Sevilla in Greenwich and the Straw Hat on the island of Anguilla, BWI. “Though cooking on the island was a great experience,” Bryan says, “fate is what brought me back to this area.” The space was introduced to him by an interested restaurant owner who was courting Bryan to be his executive chef. Bryan decided it would be better to take on the small space himself, along with a little help from his family. “My wife is my partner and works the door on weekends, my mother helps with the bookkeeping, my dad maintains the Website, and my sister is an investor.”

Blue Lemon’s charming dining room is adorned with lemon yellow walls, blue banquette seating, and large windows that give the petite space a cheerful air. The menu draws from Bryan’s diverse background, personal taste, and seasonal ingredients. Tender grilled baby squid with ginger-lime vinaigrette and the seared tuna with Thai-style cucumber salad are two light and flavorful starters, cooked just right, with refreshing citrus undertones. Seared Atlantic salmon over lentils, fall-off-the-bone lamb shank with root vegetables, and the halibut braised with white wine over leeks, cannelini beans, smoked bacon, and cockles says it all—this guy can cook! And from his success, that’s no secret. Bryan does confess to his dream job, however. “I would love to build my own place from soup to nuts, someplace on the water or on an island.” Bryan, we have those here, too! Bryan now lives in Norwalk with his wife Tamsen and their two baby daughters, Fiona and Geneva.

Blue Lemon
15 Myrtle Avenue (Sconset Square), Westport
(203) 226-2647
www.bluelemonrestaurant.com

Chef Tim LaBant

Chef Tim LaBant married his high school sweetheart, Julia, in 2000, had a son, Robert, in 2004, and began Tim LaBant Catering in 2005. A 1993 graduate of Wilton High School, Tim remembers, “there was so much emphasis placed on higher education that it didn’t even cross my mind to get into the restaurant business.” After an unfulfilling three-year stint with IBM selling computers, Tim decided to pursue the culinary arts, an interest that was sparked while cooking for himself in college. Tim enrolled in the culinary program at Johnson and Wales in Providence Rhode Island, then headed to Boston to hone his cooking skills. And that he did—at the popular restaurant L’Espalier, and for Chef Ming Tsai’s TV show, “Simply Ming.” Then it was on to New York where he trailed the talented chefs of Le Bernardin, Aureole, and Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar. “As soon as I got into cooking I knew I wanted to come back home and start up something in the food business,” which is how Tim LaBant Catering began.

Chef & Owner Tim LaBant of Tim LaBant Catering

Tim has already developed quite a reputation for quality, creativity, and fabulous food. He moves gracefully between French-inspired dinner menus, all-American barbeques, formal affairs, and even Asian-influenced cocktail parties. He sets no limitations for himself other than to strive for perfection. Tim’s experiences have taught him many things: “Be humble, don’t get a big head (it’s only food), don’t ever compromise your technique or craftsmanship, and always use the best ingredients.” So, what’s it like coming back home and starting your own business? “People always ask me how business is, so I know they at least know what I am up to. I just don’t ever want to disappoint someone with my food. I take that very seriously.” Tim and his family reside in Wilton, once again.

Tim LaBant Catering
15 Old Boston Road, Wilton
(203) 571-8037
www.timlabant.com

Chef Matt Storch

“I remember setting up a hibachi table at home after I ate at Sakura in Westport and using a ruler and other office supplies to cook a meal,” recalls Chef Matt Storch of SoNo’s hottest restaurant and gathering destination, Match. Years after Matt’s hibachi attempt and upon graduating from Staples High School in 1995 in his hometown of Westport, Matt moved to Boston and began cooking at Todd English’s now famous Olives restaurant. This solidified his passion for the culinary arts. So inspired, Matt went on to graduate from the Culinary Institute of America and soon rekindled his relationship with Todd English, assisting in the opening of three more of his award-winning restaurants across the country. Returning to Fairfield County and to his family (his sister is a wonderful pastry chef as well), Matt began as the Executive Chef of Match in 2000, earning numerous “Best Of” awards, and a reputation as one of the area’s most talented young chefs. Matt’s role within the restaurant soon changed and “Partner” was added to his title.

Executive Chef & Partner Matt Storch of Match

Match is an eclectic mix of city-sophisticated and genuine hospitality. Its wood-fired oven, vibrant textiles, exposed brick walls, and energizing music all work in tandem with Matt’s large flavor palate. Signature items include confit of duck “mu shu style,” crispy fried calamari with spicy cherry peppers and kalamata olive tapenade, savory thin-crust pizzas, handmade goat cheese and baba ghanoush agnolotti, and the often requested “8 hour” osso bucco of veal with Parmesan Reggiano risotto, fried sage, and the “braising love,” as it is affectionately dubbed.

“I would love to see more national press coverage for our culinary scene here,” says Matt. “We get overlooked because of the proximity to New York.” He is also a huge supporter of more chefs becoming owners. “I love what I do. There is nothing better than seeing a customer satisfied and hooked on your restaurant. I like to be addictive…”

Match
98 Washington Street, South Norwalk
(203) 852-1088
www.matchsono.com

Chef Sam DeVellis

Stop me if you’ve heard this story before: There are these 3 brothers from Bridgeport (and don’t forget “little sis”) who opened a pizzeria in Trumbull. They now own 2 pizza places, a burger joint, and an Italian trattoria. The story is true. And the siblings are from the DeVellis family. At the helm is Executive Chef Sam DeVellis, brothers Joseph and Idilio, and sister Rose. Sam, a 1992 graduate of Bridgeport High School, is a self-taught chef and a pragmatic entrepreneur. In 1998, pleased with the success of the family’s first pizza place, Gioves Pizza Kitchen (since 1991), Sam took the town of Monroe by storm when he transformed a non-descript pizza place located in a strip mall into a neighborhood gem in the form of Trattoria Carl Anthony, a regional Italian restaurant with style and spirit.

Executive Chef & Owner Sam DeVellis of Trattoria Carl Anthony

Sam’s cooking experiences while in Italy and his own vision of how food should make one feel is evident, as seen with such signature dishes as the grilled stuffed figs with creamy gorgonzola and prosciutto, rabbit crostini of grilled Tuscan bread, braised rabbit, and favetta (fava bean puree) with shaved pecorino, Delmonico steak with hot peppers, caramelized vidalia onions, and sun-dried tomatoes, and barbeque salmon with crispy sesame spinach. Sam is now poised for his next venture. “In Fairfield County,” he assures, “there are plenty of towns here with a thriving restaurant scene, as well as towns that are prime for something new,” he explains, “it’s the concept that needs to fit into the area.” Sam jokes that his “hometown advantage” is what laid the initial foundation for his businesses to grow—not to mention his zeal for learning and creating.

Trattoria Carl Anthony
Clocktower Square, 477 Main Street, Monroe
(203) 268-8486
www.trattoriacarlanthony.com